It was the finest morning I'd seen in a long time. Thirlmere Reservoir held strong reflections of the surrounding hills, whilst the mist from the night's frost rose gently up out of the valley. Every mountain I had seen so far on the short journey, was bathing in the rich sunlight after a week of rain and a cold night. I was setting off towards Langdale, where I would meet Rory and Evan at the foot of Gimmer Crag, a broad bit of rock, sitting high on the southern slopes of the Langdale Pikes. The walk in was tricky, and steep. It was covered in scree and loose rock. But after a bit of trouble finding my way, I soon joined up temporarily with the clear path below Harrison Stickle, before turning off again at the base of Gimmer.
Evan and Rory had already chosen 'D-route' for the first climb, a single pitch 'severe +' graded climb that I had only just managed to arrive in time to join them on. We felt Pretty sure we were on the right route as I had spotted a large D written on the rock. It was only after a few irrelevant instructions from myself and Evan at the bottom, that Rory realised he had set off up the route too far right, and the route didn't actually begin anywhere near the 'D'. I could only put it down to a raven wiping it's ass against the rock and it coincidentally forming a that letter. Rory told me to take him off belay and 3 minutes later he emerged at the bottom of the crag, ready to start again, having soloed down the correct line of ascent (luckily this was the easy section and the crux was further up!). By now the clouds had come over and I was regretting leaving my fleece by the bags. By the time we had sorted out the correct route, and Rory was ready to belay me up, my fingers had gone numb, and because of this the climb seemed hard and rather dull. Once Evan was up we joined the two ropes together and abseiled down to the bottom of the crag, where we had our lunch and put on warmer clothing.
Our next route 'Gimmer Chimney' (v.diff+) although technically easier, was a longer and more adventurous climb with 4 pitches. This would be my first trad multi-pitch, and I was keen to get climbing. After leaving a party in front enough time to get a reasonable way up the face, I lead the first pitch, an alternative route up to the first belay, that wasn't in the guide book, probably graded around 'severe'. It was particularly fun climbing. The first section (probably the crux of the pitch) was a steep slab, with thin cracks running up it. The moves on it were quite complicated and involved a bit of thought. I set on up it, placing a few nuts in the crack. Then the route went right, at an easy angle, I climbed quick and soon caught up with the larger group in front. Luckily they would be turning right up another route, so I waited for them to leave there belay stance, before traversing across to the ledge and setting up a belay myself.
It was here that I realised I had done the whole pitch only clipping one rope in (the one evan was attached to) and the one rory was on ran free of any gear, all the way up to the belay. Luckily though the rope had caught around one part of the rock and didn't seem to be moving. This was the only thing that would have stopped Rory swinging out on the rope 50 foot across the face, had he fallen. They both came up fast and secured themselves to the belay. It was now about 5:00. And I had to meet Dad down in Langdale for 6:15. Luckily Rory had brought up his phone. I left a message on the home answering machine telling them I would be half an hour late. That would give us an hour to get up to the top and half an hour to get down into the valley. Rory set off on the next pitch, up a rather awkward chimney, before getting onto easier ground above, where he set up a belay. Me and Evan followed him up. When estimating the time it would take, I had been too optimistic. There was three of us. This made the climb more enjoyable as there never seemed to lack anyone to talk to, but at the same time it slowed things down a lot. There was a lot of time spent switching ropes across and sorting out other things. But I didn't let it bother me. I knew I was committed to the climb and I couldn't remember the last time I'd had so much fun. Rushing things wasn't going help, and could just lead to a mistake.
There were two pitches left. I set off, up the next chimney directly above us, onto a ledge, this was probably where the guide book suggested a belay, but I was on a 50 metre rope and I had only climbed about 10 metres. I continued on climbing up an easy angled, gully covered in vegetation at the start of the next pitch. The climbing was easy and I hadn't placed any gear as of yet, as I never seemed to be in any danger of a fall. After placing a hex I climbed out of the gully and on to the more exposed rock. I climbed fast. In the back of my mind I knew I needed to be quick, but I made sure it didn't effect my enjoyment. The rock started to steepen a bit and I decided to put a bit of gear in, but couldn't find any easy placements. I went on, and realised that I was practically soloing. There was no 'oh shit' moment, I was just loving the climbing. I knew I wasn't going to fall and I'd never in my life felt such freedom. I climbed on up, knowing the top was close. After a few easy moves, the grass emerged and the climbing was over. I gave myself a few moments, to take in the view. I doubted whether the weather would be this good again until next summer. I put a long sling around a huge boulder ready to belay up the others. I shouted down for the next man to come up. I didn't get a reply. I remembered that I had probably just lead two pitches in one so shouted a lot loader. The noise bounced around against the cliff face, and was soon followed by a reply. I started to belay. I couldn't remember who was on the other end of the rope. About 5 minutes later Rory appeared telling me that I had just lead the two pitches on only one hex! He gave me the other end of the rope that he was attached to, and I belayed Evan up, who told me at least the hex was well placed. We then went over to the same abseil point we had rappelled off earlier that day.
It was now 7:15 exactly an hour over the time I had originally planned to meet my Dad at. The moon was now the main supply of light with only a faint orange glow from sun as it journeyed down beyond the horizon. Now the climbing had stopped, I felt worry all of a sudden. I just hoped Mum had got the message on the answering machine. I was still much later than I said I would be but at least it would take some of the worry away. By the time all three of us had done the two abseils down the face and packed everything away. It was 8:00pm. I said goodbye to the others and shot off down the hill side as fast as I could. At least I could keep moving and not have to worry about my parents. Boulders and scree covered the slope and my movement was slowed. I had no torch on me and only the moon guided the way. After what seemed like ages I had finally got on to the mickleden path where I ran all the way back with my 12kg pack. I burst into the back door of the old dungeon ghyll at 8:30, sweating like a pig. The noise and brightness really hit me after spending the last hour in the silent darkness. I scanned around and eventually found my Mum, there. For them it couldn't have been worse, Mum had come with Dad to pick me up. so they didn't get the message I'd left at home. Had I been back 10 minutes later, I might well have had the MR looking for me. So a good job I ran really!
Thanks for Reading.
Ethan
Evan and Rory had already chosen 'D-route' for the first climb, a single pitch 'severe +' graded climb that I had only just managed to arrive in time to join them on. We felt Pretty sure we were on the right route as I had spotted a large D written on the rock. It was only after a few irrelevant instructions from myself and Evan at the bottom, that Rory realised he had set off up the route too far right, and the route didn't actually begin anywhere near the 'D'. I could only put it down to a raven wiping it's ass against the rock and it coincidentally forming a that letter. Rory told me to take him off belay and 3 minutes later he emerged at the bottom of the crag, ready to start again, having soloed down the correct line of ascent (luckily this was the easy section and the crux was further up!). By now the clouds had come over and I was regretting leaving my fleece by the bags. By the time we had sorted out the correct route, and Rory was ready to belay me up, my fingers had gone numb, and because of this the climb seemed hard and rather dull. Once Evan was up we joined the two ropes together and abseiled down to the bottom of the crag, where we had our lunch and put on warmer clothing.
Our next route 'Gimmer Chimney' (v.diff+) although technically easier, was a longer and more adventurous climb with 4 pitches. This would be my first trad multi-pitch, and I was keen to get climbing. After leaving a party in front enough time to get a reasonable way up the face, I lead the first pitch, an alternative route up to the first belay, that wasn't in the guide book, probably graded around 'severe'. It was particularly fun climbing. The first section (probably the crux of the pitch) was a steep slab, with thin cracks running up it. The moves on it were quite complicated and involved a bit of thought. I set on up it, placing a few nuts in the crack. Then the route went right, at an easy angle, I climbed quick and soon caught up with the larger group in front. Luckily they would be turning right up another route, so I waited for them to leave there belay stance, before traversing across to the ledge and setting up a belay myself.
It was here that I realised I had done the whole pitch only clipping one rope in (the one evan was attached to) and the one rory was on ran free of any gear, all the way up to the belay. Luckily though the rope had caught around one part of the rock and didn't seem to be moving. This was the only thing that would have stopped Rory swinging out on the rope 50 foot across the face, had he fallen. They both came up fast and secured themselves to the belay. It was now about 5:00. And I had to meet Dad down in Langdale for 6:15. Luckily Rory had brought up his phone. I left a message on the home answering machine telling them I would be half an hour late. That would give us an hour to get up to the top and half an hour to get down into the valley. Rory set off on the next pitch, up a rather awkward chimney, before getting onto easier ground above, where he set up a belay. Me and Evan followed him up. When estimating the time it would take, I had been too optimistic. There was three of us. This made the climb more enjoyable as there never seemed to lack anyone to talk to, but at the same time it slowed things down a lot. There was a lot of time spent switching ropes across and sorting out other things. But I didn't let it bother me. I knew I was committed to the climb and I couldn't remember the last time I'd had so much fun. Rushing things wasn't going help, and could just lead to a mistake.
.jpg) |
| 1st Belay on Gimmer Chimney |
 |
| The view from the top - makes up for the descent in the dark. |
Thanks for Reading.
Ethan
